Tuesday, August 19, 2008

HIS EXCELLENCY GEORGE WASHINGTON--AN EXCELLENT BOOK

Joseph Ellis’ His Excellency George Washington has the wonderful historical perspective I look for. I visit historic places, and I want to know more. Virginia, the birthplaces/homes of eight presidents and of the ideas that founded America always piques my curiosity. Monticello, Mt. Vernon, Montpellier…. I begin reading about the founding fathers and the Revolutionary period, and I’m ensnared. I just keep going.

Visiting Mt. Vernon, (http://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2006/05/mt-vernon-virginia.html) Washington’s magnificent home with its splendid panoramic view of the Potomac and hearing about Washington as farmer made me anxious to know more. We’ve also visited Mary Washington’s home in Fredericksburg, VA where Washington spent his youth. (http://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2006/09/fredericksburg-virginia.html) Combine these with a reading journey in David McCullough’s 1776 and impressions of Washington as he appears in other places. Even a recent trip to Portland, Maine and a visit to poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s childhood home included a Washington portrait as well as a painting of Washington ascending to heaven. Why were they there? Longfellow’s grandfather served with Washington during the Revolution and admired him so.

I began His Excellency George Washington wanting to know if this GW was different from the other versions I’d read. Joseph Ellis’ book is far more than a history. It delves, based on Ellis’ study of Washington’s many papers, into the man, his personality, his motivations, and his own views of himself, his situation and his times. There are no apologies or excuses for his mistakes nor is there any downplaying of his accomplishments. That makes for an incredibly exciting and enlightening read.

We see Washington as a young man out to make his fortune. His early mistakes often turn into triumphs by circumstance. He quickly develops an ability to repress his emotions in order to achieve long-term goals. Humbled by his lack of formal education, he relies on instinct, becomes offended when he doesn’t receive his due, and seeks the power and independence fame and fortune brings even if sacrifices are to be made. Ellis introduces us to a multi-faceted individual with whom we can identify, quickly debunking the ridiculous mythical “I can never tell a lie” cherry tree chopper.

As a man, Washington’s military leadership becomes more poignant and more identifiable. What he learns from the Revolution shapes his attitude toward a strong federal government in such areas as banking and taxes, for instance, while also leaving states control of other areas.

As a president, we see him shun the trappings of a monarch and feel his way into a new kind of leader intent on guiding our country beyond its fragile infancy. He navigates his way as the legislative and judicial branches evolve. That means compromising and placing important items like slavery on the back burner for a generation because he realizes that issue will quickly destroy the country before it can even find solid footing to continue the path set in the Constitution. He sets the precedent of a president leaving office after two terms.

Ellis explains the complications of Washington’s own feelings about slavery in such a way that we can see the intricacies of the dilemma he faces. It’s interesting to follow Washington’s actions for both our government and his own private life.

Ellis’ style, though not as fluid as McCullough’s, is almost conversational as he picks his way though the dry history and shows us the human being that is often lost in our studies of Washington. Ellis even deals with Washington’s poorly fitting false teeth! The result is fascinating and thoroughly enjoyable, so it is no problem to suggest it as a great book for a vacation read.

Fortunately, or unfortunately for me, I enjoyed His Excellency George Washington so much that I am placing Ellis’ Founding Brothers: The Revolutionary Generation and American Sphinx: The Character of Thomas Jefferson on my reading list.


Friday, August 15, 2008

TRAVEL TIPS: CLEVER PRODUCTS TO HELP VACATIONERS

I’ve got two great products to recommend. I’m always looking for new, cool stuff that makes traveling more enjoyable. Here are two cuties!

1. Go to www.reef.com to find sandals with a drawer in the heel big enough for a credit card or a room key. The model is called, of course, STASH. They’re attractive, waterproof, available in different colors, and even have an arch support. I think they’re going with me next time we head to the beach!

2. For this, go to the map people at www.randmcnally.com. The product is a fabMap. It’s a handkerchief sized, micro-fiber map that needs no folding, is tear-proof and waterproof, and you can use it to wipe your glasses or sunglasses. Major points of interest are clearly marked, and they’re available for places of interest: Pike Street Market in Seattle, Riverwalk in San Antonio, Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco, Washington D.C. Mall, Manhattan’s midtown Theater District to name just a few. It's really handy, and it is a great present if you know someone traveling to one of the mapped locations.

Monday, August 04, 2008

PANAMA CANAL CRUISE--PORT #1 ARUBA


By the time we reach Aruba, the first port on our Panama Canal cruise aboard Princess’ Coral Princess, we are two days at sea, relaxing and enjoying the out-of-our-ordinary environment. Because we arrived in Florida two days before the cruise’s sailing date, we do feel we’ve been away from home quite a while, and we have shifted easily into cruise mode. Laid back and relaxed.

We are traveling with friends Sue and Marty, and that’s great. On a cruise it’s so easy to be together and also to follow our own whims. All four of us are in cruise mode. We’re using “Anytime Dining” rather than a set dinner hour, and it seems to be working just fine. This is definitely a cruise for Third Agers like us. I am told (by the grandmother of some) that there are only ten kids aboard. Works for us. There also is no trouble finding deck chairs; a lot of Third Agers are in the shadier parts of the deck. The pool is great. People are in and out of it and the three surrounding hot tubs, and there’s always conversation. We haven’t gone to the pool with the retractable roof yet because the weather has been too spectacular.

In the evening, we’ve gone to the 10:15 shows, and we haven’t had trouble finding seats. The ship winds down after that. That’s also Third Age. On the other hand, at the first “formal night,” there were a lot of gowns and tuxedos. That’s also Third Age. I think the formal nights are lovely, and I’m looking forward to the next two formal nights.

Early this morning we docked in Aruba. Sue and Marty are off on a shore tour. Rob and I are heading off to see Oranjestad.

Aruba is an interesting island because it’s only 19.6 miles long and 6 miles wide. That's only about 74 square miles. It boasts a population of 105,600 but 30,600 live in Oranjestad. While it does not have the tropical rain forests found on other Caribbean islands, and really very few places of interest to visit, it is known for its beautiful beaches and its excellent scuba and snorkeling. We have friends who visit every year and love it.

Rob and I spent our time ashore just walking around, popping into a few shops, visiting Queen Wilhelmina Park with its beautiful flowers and palm trees, and then heading to the beach where colorful boats sat lined up in a row in front of a thatched hut for picnickers. There we also photographed iguanas—those big lizards that under normal circumstances would scare me to death. They were all over the rocks near the water’s edge.

Our stroll through Oranjestad took us past colorful homes and government buildings. Greens and oranges dominate, and the colors add a happy tone to the island. We also visited Fort Zoutman, or what remains of it. I did some shopping—not for the diamonds, etc. that are offered, but for a new Del Sol shirt and some Del Sol nail polish. I love those shirts that change color in the sun, and I have something Del Sol from many of the places we visit. They’re pure fun, and frankly I am not the kind of tourist ports of call crave, although I’m sorry I forgot to get some Aruba Aloe (as we passed stands I thought they were selling sunscreen) because aloe is a major industry of the island. I like to have things that reflect what I’ve actually seen. Rob and I would like to come back to stay for a weeks’ beach vacation.


Here's a little of what we saw in Oranjestad.




Click to play Oranjestad, Aruba
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Back on the ship we have lunch and then to the pool. Life is good.

Thursday, July 31, 2008

IN SAN FRANCISCO, PLEASE STAY HERE



If I leave my heart in San Francisco, the reason will be Petite Auberge, our Union Square neighborhood hotel ranked with good reason in by Conde Nast Traveler as one of the top 75 hotels in the United States. From the instant our taxi unloaded our luggage in front of Pete Auberge’s tricolor flag, we moved into the world of a French country inn. Petite Auberge belongs to a hotel group called joive de vive, and that is the attitude with which guests are treated.

Some months ago when I reviewed Peter Mayle’s book,
A Year in Provence, (http://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2007/12/year-in-provence.html) I was also looking for a San Francisco hotel so we could spend a few days after out Panama Canal cruise. Serendipity brought me to Petite Auberge and a series of reviews that made this boutique hotel in the center of the city ideal. In February I spoke so enthusiastically about the hotel (still sight unseen) that friends traveling to San Francisco a week after our stay also booked here. They won’t be disappointed.

Our room is lovely. The walls are papered in a flowered pattern. Bowed windows overlook the street below us. There’s a lovely fireplace, its mantel carved wood, its hearth tiled. On our antique queen bed across the room, a Russ teddy bear awaits in greeting. Live ivy plants, a personal library, and soft robes with the hotel’s logo await in the antique armoire, the top drawer converted to accommodate a swing-out TV. Two comfortable wingchairs and a small antique secretary with plenty of stationery complete the bedroom. It’s lovely and romantic.

Not only does the bathroom contain the usual soaps and shampoos but also cotton swabs and cotton balls. There’s even a large two-sided regular/magnifying mirror attached to the wall abutting the sink.

Downstairs is a lovely parlor complete with fireplace, loveseats and tables, a library and games, and 24 hour coffee (French roast, of course) as well as a selection of teas. Bottles of waters and soda jam the refrigerator. Everything is included.

From 5-6:30 each evening snacks and wine are served, again included, and we get to meet other guests. The wines are Fetzer selections, and there is a variety of cheeses, fruits, biscuits, and cakes. It’s lovely, relaxing and we meet guests from England, Scotland, France, and the U.S. in this warm, comfortable setting. This is an experience in itself and a restful way to end a day sightseeing in this city of seven hills.

Breakfast is included with our room, and beyond the downstairs parlor is a cozy dining area with doors leading to outside seating. San Francisco’s morning weather doesn’t seem to lend itself to using those tables too often, so the inside is painted as a patio. One wall has a mural of the outside of a home, and tucked into one of the roof tiles is a small bird’s nest. The posts are painted with vines winding up and across the ceiling, the ceiling is painted as sky and there are even birds flying overhead. The effect is charming.

Breakfast is more than charming. There are scrambled eggs, sausage patties and links, broccoli quiche, fresh fruit pieces—watermelon, pineapple, honeydew, and cantaloupe—freshly baked croissants, specialty bread, melt-in-your-mouth French pastries—and a crock of oatmeal (no instant here), butter and fresh apricot and raspberry preserves. Orange juice and cranberry juice, French roast coffee, and a choice of Bigelow teas round off the breakfast.

The tables are full as guests relax, open the morning newspapers they’ve found outside their doors, and talk to each other about their plans for the day. The hotel’s clientele come from all over the world. We exchange addresses with a couple from London who will be in NYC next year, and we have an enjoyable political discussion with a man from Southampton, England who is intrigued by our upcoming presidential elections. At two of the tables French is spoken. We also meet a Russian couple now living in Brighton Beach, New York. The result is a stimulating morning of invigorating conversation before we part for a day of sightseeing and climbing the hills of San Francisco.

Sounds wonderful, doesn’t it? This morning before leaving, we left the front desk our flight and confirmation number, and we came back to printed boarding passes and airport shuttle reservations.

Beyond the lovely inn-like quality of the décor is the solicitous nature of the staff. They are available to help you in any way possible and to make your San Francisco vacation as satisfying as possible. Visit the website and you’ll discover ways to make your San Francisco visit more enjoyable, must-see sights and suggestions for tours as well as arrangements with a special group of San Franciscans who will take you on free personalized tours tailored to highlight the best of their city. BTW, for a different experience two doors down from Petite Auberge is the White Swan Inn, another Joie de Vivre hotel—this one an English Country Inn.


IT'S A DOOCY OF A BOOK--MR. & MRS. HAPPY HANDBOOK

From the bargain book section in Barnes & Noble, I picked up Steve Doocy’s book, The Mr. & Mrs. Happy Handbook, to give to Rob as a light-hearted present. He hasn’t read it yet, but I have, and I must admit what started as a little joke turned out to a pleasant and often surprisingly familiar read.

Doocy is a morning TV anchor with a smile playing on his lips most of the time. He’s always mentioning his family, and though I hate to be duped into believing a celebrity’s on air persona, Doocy appears on the level, and on the conservative side of values.

Mr. & Mrs. Happy Handbook, seems to begin as fluff and anecdotes—personal and contributed. Pleasant enough, Doocy has a cute sense of humor and plays with his reader. He jokes about how odd some couples’ meetings, engagements, weddings, and honeymoons can be. He keeps it light and airy, At first I smiled but then began to find some of the anecdotes lol funny or surprising! But none of those tales reminded me of me.

When Doocy begins writing about in-laws, pregnancy, births, children and raising them, things became quite familiar. Here’s one example that struck especially close to home, and if you know our son Michael, you’ll understand why. When Michael was little, I didn’t want to buy toy guns for him.

Doocy points out about his own son, Peter: “…Later we discovered the urge to shoot things is programmed into boys at the factory, and by the time he was three he was shooting at squirrels in trees and rabbits in the yard with his fingers locked in a pistol-like pose; later he improvised a weapon from a bent stick and shot at the Good Humor truck.”

That’s the Doocy boy. We (really me) broke down and eventually Michael got a coonskin cap and a Davy Crockett rifle. I played old Fess Parker episodes of Walt Disney’s Davy Crocket. I hoped if the rifle were old fashioned, Michael wouldn’t make connections with more modern weapons. Duh… As I said, the anecdotes become eerily familiar.

Surreptitiously tucked away in this humorous book, however, is a whole lot of good advice. If Doocy is really talking about his family, he’s got a solid marriage and some kids with good values. Good for him.

So, read light, laugh, and learn when you pick up Mr. & Mrs. Happy Handbook. It’s a pleasant way to enjoy some reading time.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

#1 Ladies Detective Agency--THE MIRACLE AT SPEEDY MOTORS


Alexander McCall Smith hasn’t lost his #1 Ladies Detective Agency touch in this ninth novel of the series, The Miracle at Speedy Motors. This book is as delightful a read as one can wish.

Precious Ramotswe’s homespun wisdom surfaces again as she observes life in her beloved Botswana. Her advice about how we treat one another remains universal and engenders harmony and peace. It’s advice worth taking.

In this novel, Ramotswe’s cases and life’s problems are often born of the same longing—searching for something missing which may be impossible to find. Isn’t that so often the case in life? Sometimes people think their search will need a miracle to be successful. But how does one define a miracle? In many ways, daily life is full of miracles even if we don’t always recognize them. One client, for instance, is anxious to find family members she suspects she has. What she finds is a story in itself. In another instance a real miracle must occur. Maybe it does.

Once again, Alexander McCall Smith allows the characters we have observed in the past to grow and to change. He does this well. They don’t change in leaps and bounds. It’s a matter of nuance.

Charley, the hapless, girl-crazy older apprentice emerges a bit more observant and a bit more loyal than one would have guessed.

Grace Makutsi’s relationship with her fiancé, Phuti Radiphuti, goes through some tests. Can one maintain a long-lived loving relationship without honesty as a basic component even if a little lie is meant to protect?

I like the way McCall Smith places his characters in everyday situations because those are the times real people are most tempted to act expeditiously thinking this is so small an instance it really doesn’t matter. The message is clear, however, it’s in our everyday lives, our everyday dealings with people, that honesty matters most.

If you’ve enjoyed the earlier books in this charming series, you’ll certainly relish this one, and as there is still so much room for growth, I hope Alexander McCall Smith has another #1 Ladies Detective Agency book in the works.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

THE CRAB COOKER WILL MAKE YOU SMILE

The Crab Cooker
2200 Newport Blvd.
Newport Beach, CA 92663
949-673-0100


Here’s a brief suggestion for a great little beachy place in Newport Beach, California—The Crab Cooker. The Crab Cooker has been around for more than fifty years and boasts it’s the only fish restaurant that keeps its fresh fish in a vault! Yes, the building was originally a Bank of America building, and the owners of the restaurant converted the vault into a refrigerator. Pretty neat; no tours, however. I would have liked to see that!

On the walls of the restaurant are old photos of fishing boats, signed photos of movie stars and mounted trophy fish including one impressive one hundred pound fish with the hook still hanging from its mouth.

We’re here for lunch with Aunt Jeanne and Uncle Jesse, and we want to keep it brief so we can get to the beach. My toes yearn for a Pacific Ocean dunk.

We’re also here for a bowl of some highly touted chowder. All four of us quickly learn the reason for the reputation. This tomato based chowder is brimming with fish and squid and vegetables. It’s highly seasoned and absolutely delicious.

In big jars on the table are freshly baked breadstick that taste more like a rich egg bread. There are also big bread nuts, crunchy and rich to add to the chowder.

The appetizers are so tempting that three of us order an appetizer rather than an entire luncheon platter which comes with a big main portion, slaw and potatoes.

Rob’s fried squid served with a creamy sauce (remoulade) is excellent. The batter is light and the squid is neither dried out not chewy. My steamed clams are also just right. Uncle Jesse opts for a very generous shrimp cocktail, shrimp done to perfection. Aunt Jeanne’s fried fish filet luncheon platter proved too much for her, and she took some of it home.

We didn’t linger for coffee. The sun and the ocean beckoned.

Newport Beach is one of two Crab Cooker locations. The second is in Tustin, California.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

TRAVEL TIPS -- SOME GOOD PASSPORT NEWS FOR SOME

If you do a lot of travel between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean and Bermuda--though not by air--the Passport office might have something for you. It's a passport card which fits in your wallet. It might make life simpler for you. If you already have a valid passport, you can apply as a renewal for a $20.00 fee. First time applicants pay $45.00. The card is good for ten years. The Passport Card contains a chip with the necessary documentation. There is no personal information stored on the chip. For more information, go to www.travel.state.gov/passport.

Monday, June 30, 2008

I'M BETTING ON A GREAT LAS VEGAS WEEKEND--Part I

A long weekend in Las Vegas to attend the wedding of our friend Heather means a great catch-up time—not only with our son, Michael on leave from Iraq and our wonderful daughter-in-law, Leslie, and a large part of Heather’s clan—but also for Rob and me who seem to show up in Vegas about every twenty years! This is our third visit, so we get to see Vegas’ third reincarnation!!

Rob and I visited Las Vegas twice before: In 1971 (yes, ancient history) after driving our VW convertible (top up) through Death Valley. It was dark when we pulled into a motel (yes, aren’t motels ancient history?). In the morning we looked out our back window and saw nothing but desert. There was a road in front, the forerunner of the strip, and lots of signs advertising land for sale! If only....

The second time was in 1988 for the PMA convention, and this Las Vegas was the era of Caesar's Place, the Flamingo, the Tropicana, the Sahara and the famous personalities and revues. Hotels abounded, and there was a lot of action. Las Vegas had grown into a city, and we were amazed. But what seemed grand in ‘88 is inconsequential now.

Though we've heard of today's Las Vegas, nothing prepares us for the flight in. Through the plane’s windows we see far-reaching neighborhoods stretching out into the desert. We enter a different and amazing world. Some of the 1988 hotels are still there, but they are dwarfed by the hotels in this reinvented city.

We are staying in the MGM Grand, and on the main floor among the zillion slot machines, gaming tables, restaurants, and shops is Lion Habitat. Wow! Supposedly the lions featured in this free exhibit are direct descendants of the original MGM lion, Metro. These lions roam in a glass habitat built so we can walk around it on one level to see the lions and walk under it on another level to get a different perspective. Through the glass we can get very close. The lions are unperturbed.

The two trainers, who work six-day weeks to maximize their up-close time with the animals, are right in the cage with the lions, becoming part of the pride. This relationship allows special interaction I’ve never seen before. The lions rub their faces against the trainers’, showing affection and saying hello. It’s amazing to see. Rob and I spent a lot a time at Lion Habitat; it is impossible to simply walk through and walk away. It's fascinating to see the interaction between man and beast. You have to see it to believe it.

The MGM Grand is humungous. I cannot begin to estimate the size of the hotel, but it is monstrous and spread out in such a way that we can spend an entire day moving through the casino, the restaurants, the shops, theaters, clubs, and exhibits. We drop into the Stage Deli for lunch--yes, an offshoot of New York's famous deli. That's why we selected it for lunch. Around us are TV screens featuring basketball’s March madness, and there's not only gambling going on but also partisanship and applauding and hooting when favored teams score. The hotel is a playground, and it's a lot of fun! Rob and I aren’t really the kind of guests Las Vegas craves. There was so much to see and do that we only hit the casino once.

Back in New York we'd ordered tickets to Blue Man Group through the MGM’s concierge, but to exchange our vouchers, we have to head up to the theater located in the Venetian Hotel. We’re told the earlier we show, the better the seats. The Venetian Hotel is on our Must See list anyway, so this is not a problem.

The Venetian is phenomenal. It brings the outside world inside but only after we’ve walked through the inside world. Sound confusing? It is. But it is so fantastic, it is almost beyond belief.

We enter to blinding gold everywhere--painted ceilings, sculptures, and an incredibly long corridor. We pick up our Blue Man Group tickets and head down the corridor, through the casino, up the escalators, through the Grand Canal Shoppes, and into Venice. Here the outdoors are indoors. Here is the Grand Canal with gondolas and singing gondoliers. Here is St. Mark's Square with performance artists, musicians, restaurants and shops--even Murano glass is sold here. It's astounding. Like everything in Vegas, it is so huge it is difficult to comprehend. It is smile evoking. We do pass on the gondola ride at $15.00 per, but we take photos, and these I share with you. Remember, this is all inside the hotel!

Rob and I dine in Noodle Asian--delicious! Then to The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf Too for some coffee, and we're there when Michael and Leslie call because they’re trying to find us before the show. They never do find us; the place is too huge and confusing, and we don't meet them until after the show. The theater, by the way, dwarfs any Broadway house. As with everything else, it is super sized. In addition to Blue Man Group, there are Phantom of the Opera, Jersey Boys, a comedy show and a joint exhibition of the Guggenheim Museum and the Hermitage of Modern Masters as possibilities in the Venetian Hotel. All in individual theaters or showcases, and I've not included any of the clubs or restaurants in this list. It boggles the mind!

Blue Man Group is beyond description. I think you have to be a slightly demented genius to think up the various marvelous routines, but this is one of the most original and wonderful theatrical events I've ever attended. I am soooo glad Spamalot (our original choice) was sold out! Even the audience participants are good sports, easing right into the spirit of the evening. The first three rows of audience wear plastic rain gear, and there is a good reason for that with paint splattering all over. The entire audience participates, decorating ourselves with rolled paper and reading our cues on the moving LED board. Spectacle is the order of the performance, and the technical virtuosity of the creators makes this an evening to remember. If you have a chance to see Blue Man Group, don't pass up the opportunity.

Needless to say, by the time the show is over we are really wiped out--the three hour time difference, the excitement, etc., but at 7 the following morning we are up to meet some friends--the bride's mother, aunt, and cousin for a two-hour coffee, fruit and yogurt breakfast at Starbucks. Then off we go to explore separately and rendezvous at Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville at 4 PM. It's a great day to explore Las Vegas without being rushed because we’ll be back; this grown-up playground is a place we will re-visit, and not after another 20 years!


HARPOON BAY--SEAFOOD FOR FOODIES

My town, Warwick, New York, offers many lovely restaurants, but we haven’t had a good seafood restaurant since the terrific Deep Sea Warwick closed a few years ago. But Harpoon Bay, once several miles out Rt. 94 on the way to Vernon, New Jersey, has relocated right in the middle of the village, transforming the vacated Warwick Hardware store into a place where seafood is king.

Harpoon Bay is owned by Four Star Chef Denis Viera. Relocating in the village was a good business move; the old location was too far away. One only has to look at Chef Viera’s extensive and creative menu to see that an exciting and different meal awaits you at Harpoon Bay. Use the link to visit Viera’s website and take a look at the wonderful choices Viera offers his diners.

We were three the evening after our book discussion at the library, so we were ready to dine and talk and unwind.

Our young waiter immediately brought a basket of tasty warm bread—very welcome and quickly sampled. Anne and I began with cups of New England clam chowder chock full of clams and potatoes. It was an excellent way to begin our dinner. Rob opted for the spicy Portuguese fish chowder which he rated as excellent. It reminded him vaguely of Manhattan Clam Chowder, but it was enhanced by many more ingredients.

Our salads were fresh and crisp with a nice variety of greens and a good choice of dressings.

For our entrées, Anne and I chose from broiled fish served in Chef Viera’s light and mild crust. Anne selected tilapia while I had salmon. Both were beautifully done. Mine was accompanied by a baked potato and a nice vegetable medley of squashes, and Anne chose French Fries and the vegetable medley. We also had a choice of Spanish Rice and beans.

Rob chose from the daily special menu, a broiled tuna steak served with the squash medley and mushrooms, and he gave it two thumbs up.

We finished with coffee—no room for dessert.

Sounds perfect, doesn’t it? There are a few drawbacks, however, and they should be noted.

Our waiter was either inexperienced or just bad. Anne ordered iced tea which never came, and our waters arrived halfway through our soup. Service was not good, but I can easily give that negative the benefit of a doubt since this was our first visit.

Prices are high. Anne’s and my selections were each $18.95. In a restaurant with comfortable seating and a higher level of ambiance, the prices would be termed reasonable. But Harpoon Bay’s seating is cramped and on wooden chairs that were uncomfortable. At some later date, perhaps Harpoon Bay will move again—this time to a true restaurant setting with all that implies. Until then, prices should move down a notch.

These criticisms take nothing away from Chef Denis Viera’s masterful skills. Now that we know what to expect, Rob and I will probably visit again—especially with local friends. But we probably won’t invite out-of-town friends to Harpoon Bay. That’s a shame, but a good restaurant is generally more than the food it offers.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

I'M BETTING ON A LONG WEEKEND IN LAS VEGAS--PART 2

I've come prepared with a list of the Top 17 Attractions as provided by Frommer’s, Fodor’s, www.schmap.com, and 24/7 Magazine, provided free in every taxi in Las Vegas. Isn’t that a great idea for a tourist town? All sources prove invaluable.

First stop of the day—The Luxor. We navigate through the MGM Grand and follow all signs to New York, New York. We cross one of the many overpasses connecting hotels on the Strip, go through Excalibur, where I take a photo with Elvis, and we arrive at Mandalay Bay. From Mandalay Bay we ask directions to the people movers and finally get to the Luxor.



The Luxor is a pyramid shaped (at least in part) building which takes us back to the days of the Pharaohs, and we are here to see King Tut's Tomb and Museum, a replica of Tutenkhamun's tomb discovered and unearthed by Howard Carter in 1922. The entire exhibit, room measurements and placement of artifacts are based on Carter's notes. There is an introductory BBC film with clips of Howard Carter and we have an audio tour featuring “Howard Carter” to guide us through. He describes the artifacts and their placement, explaining how each, symbolically, helped the young King make the transition to the afterworld. It is so stunningly realistic that it is hard to believe these are replicas. The $9.99 admission fee is well worth it.

Retracing some of our steps, we board the free monorail at the Luxor which runs between it, New York, New York and Mandalay Bay. We get off at Mandalay Bay to walk up to the Bellagio to catch their famous dancing waters fountain show.

Las Vegas is a sensory overload experience, and the Bellagio's grandness adds another WOW to the long list. We get there just in time for the fountain exhibit, and the dancing waters are lovely though not that unusual. Inside, the Bellagio is anything but usual. The theme is flowers, and decorating the main hall's ceilings are hundred of glass flowers reminiscent of the Norton Museum's exhibit of flowers. This is Dale Chihuly’s Fiori di Como, and it is magnificent.

Behind the registration desk is a courtyard garden complete with arches and brilliantly colored gardens. The guidebooks suggest visiting the Bellagio Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, but we are not prepared for this spectacular domed array of vivid greens, purples, yellows, and reds. The display is so rich, bright, and vivid that guests find touching a petal irresistible just to make sure this is not a lustrous, sparkling hoax. There are actually more than 5,000 green and purple succulents here. There are giant snails and ladybugs composed of roses. There are birds made of flowers, a garden of outsized watering cans nourishing the plants, a tree-lined walkway and a butterfly sanctuary. Every visitor wears a smile and feels as if he is in a grand and colorful world. That's probably because for the time we are in this rare botanical garden, we are.




Next we’re off to the Flamingo Hotel, a still vital remnant of a bygone Las Vegas era, and our place of rendezvous is Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville. Rob and I hit Margaritaville in Myrtle Beach, and in Vegas we are treated to more of the same--wonderful, exciting decorations: planes overhead, booths shaped as boats, big screens and pumpin’, thumpin’ music. We join Heather’s wedding party’s rehearsal dinner, and are welcomed as one of the family. They’re joyous; we’re joyous; everyone is so happy to be here. Heather and Cliff are the happiest couple, and we are all so welcome to participate in their joy. We party hardy until it’s time to get ready for nighttime in Vegas.

This evening's entertainment with many of the Hills' relations is Cirque du Soleil KA, one of several Cirque du Soleil shows running in Vegas. This one is reviewed as the best. Don't be fooled into thinking this is a circus; it is not. It is a theatrical show combining acrobatic performances, martial arts, puppetry, multimedia and pyrotechnics in a theater that is huge and almost a spectacle in itself. Prior to the show's beginning, cast members swing from and climb up the balconies. They fly through the air. I would love to describe the performance for you, but words fail. The agility and skill of the cast interweaves with unique lighting and incredible sets that move and tilt. Combine that with the number of stunts that had to challenge the imaginations of the creators, the skills of these most expert performers and the minds of the jaw-dropped audience who are dazzled and stunned. I would go to another Cirque du Soleil show in a minute. I’d even hurry back to this one!

Thank goodness Cirque du Soleil is in the MGM Grand because by evening’s end my feet have forsaken me. I’m beat. For a hoot, this morning I clipped on my pedometer, and by the time we get back to our room, we have walked just short of ten miles. That doesn't, of course, count the people movers, the monorail, or the taxi back from the Flamingo. We sure did cover a lot of space.

Heather and Cliff's wedding is another unique and wonderful experience. Elvis entertains and performs the ceremony, and the songs are great. There is dancing and happiness and a good feeling of laid-back well being. For folks who couldn't make the trip, there is a computer link enabling them to watch the ceremony in real time. A few days later, the ceremony and photos would be online for everyone to see. The reception follows at the Hofbrauhaus, and there we have another grand surprise.
For us this long weekend is a time of smiles and making memories. Heather and Cliff's wedding is lovely; we get to spend some time with the Hills family which is always fun and grows in warmth each time we get together; Michael is on leave from Iraq and spending time with him and Leslie is indescribable; at the reception Leslie recognizes our nephew Noel who is in Las Vegas for a bachelor party for a guy Heather actually knows--talk about six degrees of separation--and we get to have brunch with him the following morning before he leaves; Rob leaves Las Vegas in the black (although I was $.15 in the red); we then head off to Anaheim, California for a short visit with my Aunt Jeanne and Uncle Jesse before returning home to NY. Whew!!!!


Sunday, June 22, 2008

KITTY FOYLE--A TRIP BACK TO THE 1920s and 30s


Christopher Morley’s novel, Kitty Foyle, is definitely not for everyone, but this novel was a book of choice for me. Written in 1939 and covering the years between the mid 1920s and pre-Pearl Harbor days, it becomes a time travel book, filled not with my memories but with some of the things I heard from my mother—right down to a rhyme she taught me and my sister: “Bee’s you got bugs? Sure I are. Everybody do.” Never did know what that meant—until I read Kitty Foyle. “That was the signal that meant Everything was honky-dory, let’s talk.”

How did I get this book? Rob and I had dinner at Charlie Brown’s Steakhouse where there are shelves of old books. I looked up and saw Kitty Foyle on an upper shelf begging me to take her home. We asked, and Rob had to climb on a table to reach the book. Years ago I’d seen Kitty Foyle, the 1940 movie, starring Ginger Rogers who won an Oscar for her role, and that was enough of a recommendation for me! In my book, the pages are yellowed with age and the ancient bookplate says, “From the library of Percival M. Sax., Jr.” Great name out of the past. If you’re a book-lover, you probably know how connected I feel; otherwise, you probably think I’m nuts.

Kitty expresses Morley’s belief that the novel should show the “result of the workings of the heart and brain, of the body, soul, and spirits of…human beings.” Her narrative is about growing from a girl to a woman, experiencing loss, change, and love. It incorporates the joys, pains, recoveries and introspective searchings life deals out to us. It’s impossible not to be involved because it’s impossible not to relate to the truths in this fiction.

At the same time, it is dated fiction, so not for everyone. Kitty’s home is Philadelphia post war—the Great War, the War to End All Wars, World War I. It’s a Philadelphia of classes and Main Line prosperity. It is a Philadelphia where the game of Cricket is King, not football or baseball, and Kitty’s dad, a night foreman at a machine shop mixes with Main Liners because of his cricket acumen. Perfect opening for a romantic attachment….

A trip to the Poconos becomes a moment for Kitty who, being a working class Philly girl, sees mountains for the first time. She describes the Poconos as “mountain country up beyond Stroudsburg, where the absolutely right people go for their particular kind of well-bred whoopee.” Get the romantic angle? Today nothing is remote and certainly not the Poconos from Philadelphia. As a resort, its time has come and gone, and the Poconos are now full of year-round communities and hotels converted into condos and time shares.

Travel in Kitty’s day primarily was by train, and Kitty talks about struggling to get dressed in a Pullman berth. Many of today’s readers may not know what a Pullman berth is.

Kitty claims she “was one of the first generation that learned to do its homework with the radio turned on.” How’s that for pre-TV? Bet it drove parents crazy.

When she moves to NYC she says, “I’d rather have one window looking across the Hudson toward America than a whole penthouse over on the East River where people have to live to remind themselves how well bred they are.” Anyone familiar with NYC knows the difference between the Eastside and the Westside. Kitty has it straight.

From her Riverside Drive apartment she sees “the new parkway on Riverside and [the] Hudson River….” It’s tough to imagine the Henry Hudson Parkway—The West Side Highway—as new.

Kitty uses a lot of her era’s slang. I’ve heard some of the terms from my mom and from movies, and they give a sweet pang as Kitty says them. “Milkman’s Matinee” means “coffee and cigarettes at midnight and hair down all over the place.” W.C.G. means white collar girls--those career women who work for low wages until they can get married. Kitty’s slang adds flavor to the pot.

There’s another endearing quality to this novel. Christopher Morley has expectations of his readers. Kitty certainly is no scholar, but she has been to school where she was introduced to literature that has made its mark on her—literature sadly considered too “challenging” for today’s students. Kitty refers to great literature, and our author assumes we, as readers, all understand these references. Kitty casually refers to The Lady of the Lake, The Ancient Mariner, Midsummer Night’s Dream, Spoon River, Elegy in a Country Churchyard, Fanny Hill, and Archie and Mehitibal. There are references to Vachel Lindsay and Walt Whitman. We’re just supposed to know! Most young people today would scratch their heads and say, “It’s all Greek to me.” Nope—they haven’t read enough Shakespeare to say that.

No. Kitty Foyle is not for everyone. It’s certainly not for the politically correct. Kitty makes some comments and uses some names that could really blow gaskets today. They startled me, but they were never used in a hateful way. The book was written in 1939, but the novel’s setting is 1931. Historically, Hitler is already on the rise. Kitty reacts to one situation by saying, “ I felt as lonely as a Jew in Germany.” There are other times when there are real warnings about Hitler because we were aware in 1939. There are also terms used for some of the people who ran speakeasies or did housework. So if you’re totally into political correctness, some of what you read here will give you a jolt.

On the other hand, there’s a message we should listen to today. Kitty warned about Hitler, but she pointed out another clear and present danger, and it is one we face today. “Mark…wants to hear what I think about his article on Socialized Medicine. He knows damn well, what some of them don’t yet, doctors and everything else that’s important will get to be socialized sooner or later.” I sure hope this thought remains fiction.

From the length of this review, can you tell how much I enjoyed this book?

Thursday, June 19, 2008

RHODES NORTH TAVERN--Definitely worth the stop!

Rhodes North Tavern
40 Orange Turnpike (Rt. 17)
Sloatsburg, NY 10974
845-753-6438
Rhodes North Tavern in Sloatsburg, New York, on Rt. 17 is just minutes off exit 15A of the NY State Thruway (I287). It is the perfect place to grab a quick bite to eat or to meet friends for an unhurried dinner. It’s a perfect meeting place, and I know because we’ve been going there for years—as couples or as ladies’ night out. Rhodes was also voted Best Pub in 2007 by Rockland Magazine.

We began going there because of the convenient location. Rob and I would drive down from Warwick while others came from Highland Mills, Wesley Hills, or Wanaque, New Jersey. Each with our different tastes, we found the varied menu worked well whether we wanted a full dinner, a salad or sandwich, or a pizza. Meals are hearty, and there’s no rush to finish. Meeting Anne and Iris the other night at 6:00 PM, for instance, we didn’t leave until almost 10:00 PM, and that was over two drinks, the Rich Man’s Burger (seared filet mignon smothered with mushrooms and onions) for Anne and Iris, and a half rack of juicy ribs served with potatoes and vegetables for me.

Click on this post’s title for a link to Rhodes’ web page, and explore the menu. We’ve been there on Raw Bar nights too, and the seafood is fresh and cold. You’ll also see the entertainment calendar, and that, I’m sure, accounts for the fact that the parking lots are always busy. But don’t be concerned; Rhodes is big enough so that the music doesn’t deafen you and prevent conversation. Rhodes has an upstairs seating area as well, so even though it’s popular, it handles the crowds beautifully.

Before we left Rhodes the other night, we made our next dinner date. Same time. Same place.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

KEROUAC'S ON THE ROAD--A LOOK AT THE BEAT GENERATION

Here’s a book touted as speaking for a generation, and 60 years after its publication, Jack Kerouac’s On the Road is still popular, still being read on college campuses, still selling well, and still in the midst of controversy.

As Sal Paradise, Kerouac’s stream-of-consciousness journey back and forth across the United States and eventually to Mexico with a zany, wild friend, Dean Moriarty, (Neal Cassady in real life) is rumored to have been written in three weeks in a benzedrine induced sleeplessness. Cassady’s wife debunked this myth, admitting Kerouac was much more conventional as he wrote episodes in journals over a seven year period and transformed those journal entries into this novel—names changed to protect the real people he wrote about: Allan Ginsburg, the poet, emerges as Carlo Marx in the novel, for instance. Use this link to a short NPR program on the book: Morning Edition - 09/09/2002 - Segment: 13

Stream-of-consciousness allows Kerouac to write at a fevered pitch, eschewing many grammatical rules and allowing him to raise Dean to god-like status, beatific, in a beat(nick) world that is alienated from middle class morals, dreams, and practices. It’s a trip—pun intended!

What these characters search for is IT. What IT is is unknown, but they know they have TIME to find IT. This is a sad search by disenchanted, alienated men and women in their 20s. The desultory existence of On the Road’s inhabitants is infused with sex, drugs, alcohol, and lack of commitment. I don’t see that as my father’s generation; Tom Brokaw’s view in The Greatest Generation is much more in my experience. Still this is an interesting look at some of lost members of that WWII generation as was Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises a view of those lost in the aftermath of WWI.

Why do I include this novel in Third Age Traveler? I read it because I am facilitating a book discussion for the New York State Council for the Humanities. But there are special qualities in this book. It’s different enough to be an interesting read. It’s famous enough to be something worth exploring. It’s poetic enough to include some beautiful images, and it’s crazy and real enough to have you shaking your head in disbelief! If you read On the Road, I sure would like you to comment on it.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

TRAVEL TIPS FOR DISNEYWORLD AND EPCOT

Spontaneous dining in the restaurants at Epcot is virtually impossible any time of year. You need reservations—absolutely. You've several possibilities here: use the dining reservations number: (407) WDW-DINE (939-3463) as soon as you know the dates you will be at Epcot. Remember that reservations may be made up to 180 days in advance, so think of this as part of your travel planning. For more info, go to http://www.mousesavers.com/advancedres.html.

A second option is to use your hotel's concierge. In the Sheraton Vistana where Rob and I stayed, there was a separate Disney desk for all Disney activities. We asked them to make dining reservations for the following evening and were able to get a "ringside" table at the United Kingdom's Rose & Crown from which we could view the Illuminations program at night. I believe the Rose & Crown is the only restaurant on the lagoon, therefore the only restaurant offering that kind of seating. When I tried to book my own lunch reservation by phone the following morning, there was not one table available at any restaurant in Epcot. That result tells me that the concierge who connected directly by computer had an edge the individual caller does not.

The Epcot countries all have "take-out" type places as well as restaurants, but some of the restaurants are lovely, reasonably priced, and well worth the time in planning your itinerary.

While at Epcot, take advantage of FastPass which we used at Disneyland in California last year. Rides where FastPass is available are noted on your Guidemap to the Park. You pick up a Guidemap as you enter. You'll find FastPass at the more popular or challenging rides. These rides have two lines, a standing line and a FastPass line. Each line announces the waiting times. To get a FastPass, put your entry ticket in the machine, and you're given a ticket to that ride with about an hour window in which to use it. When you return during your window, you may be able to walk right on to the ride. In Disneyland we still had a short wait on one ride, but you should have seen the length of the Standing Line.

You're only permitted one FastPass ticket at a time, so you can't FastPass your way around the park. Fastpass works really well, and it definitely beats standing in line. We got a FastPass for Test Track with its 70 minute Standing Waiting line, and used our “wait” time to enjoy other rides: Mission: Space, The Seas with Nemo and Friends, Journey Into Imagination with Figment, and Living with the Land. We also had enough time to look at other exhibits and to send an email video. That’s a lot to accomplish, but we got back to Test Track before our FastPass expired. Ironically we ended up giving away our FastPass tickets; we didn't realize that Test Track is the fastest ride in Epcot complete with bumps, short stops, etc. I guess that accounts for the long Standing Line (full of young people!).

Consider this option if you think you may have trouble walking for the time or distance at any Disney venues. Disney rents wheelchairs and scooters. Plenty of people use them. You will not be alone if you choose this mode of travel. Epcot and Disneyworld rides are also scooter and wheelchair friendly, and as you would expect, Disney staffers are ready to assist. The Guidemap indicates which rides are wheelchair accessible--and at Epcot, every ride is accessible, although on some rides a person must transfer from the scooter to a wheelchair.

One last bit of advice. Well in advance of your visit, go to a bookstore and browse through the numerous guidebooks available. In our Barnes & Noble, for instance, there is an entire section dedicated to Disney. Go online and google Disneyworld, Epcot, Orlando. You’ll get a lot of information that will make your trip more enjoyable and give you some options you might have not known. In the huge Disney entertainment empire, knowledge is power. I can help with your bookings. Click this link to my TATravel and look at VACATIONS. Explore there, and you’ll pick up some good info on Disney (or any other spot). When you make your decisions, choose FLIGHT & HOTEL or FLIGHT, HOTEL & CAR, plug in your info, and you’ll come up with some great possibilities for a terrific vacation. Or email me!